There’s a reason the sun shines
on New Zealand before anywhere else – every new day in Aotearoa
is something to cherish! Small, remote and thinly populated, yes, but
NZ punches well above its weight with its outlandish scenery, fabulous
festivals, superb food and wine, and magical outdoor experiences. Equally
impressive is NZ’s potent, mainstream Maori culture. This is a
country that recognises and celebrates its indigenous people –
the world is a kinder, gentler, more respectful place down here! And
while the fanfare surrounding the Lord of the Rings trilogy is waning,
visiting the real-life Middle-earth still has a geeky allure - LOTR
director Peter Jackson's filmmaking prowess still holds Wellington (aka
‘Wellywood’) in its thrall.
In 2007, around 2.2 million overseas
visitors tramped, wheeled, wined and dined across the country, up almost
40% from a relatively meagre 1.6 million in 1999. But at what cost?
Extra visitors strain the clean, green environment NZ is renowned for,
and all this wilderness frenzy is having an impact: the skies above
Franz Josef Glacier buzz with droning aeroplanes, tourists still shampoo
in creeks, and locals simply avoid entire chunks of NZ because of the
tourist hordes. In response, the Department of Conservation (DOC) has
implemented a booking system for its Great Walks - there are nine including
the Milford Track, Routeburn Track and Abel Tasman Coast Track - to
avoid overcrowding and minimise environmental damage. The NZ tourism
industry is embracing all things ‘eco’, while regionally,
eateries and farmers markets selling local produce present sustainable
options. Regardless, hardcore environmentalists claim the industry and
government aren’t moving fast enough. Drought and climate change
are fanning the flames...
On the broader arts front, Kiwi live
music remains brilliant (dub, hip-hop, reggae and rock), while NZ radio
remains abysmal. Culturally, debate rages between anti- and pro-arts
lobbies: one side would rather chew their arms off than see another
art gallery open; the other sees cultural celebration as the future
for both community and tourism. How does NZ forge its cultural identity?
What role do the arts play? Do cultural attractions lure the tourists?
From our perspective, they most certainly do!
And then of course there’s the
national obsession – rugby. After yet another dazzling failure
at the 2007 Rugby World Cup in France, the All Blacks are desperate
to redeem themselves on home soil in 2011. The most successful rugby
team in history (a 74% winning record!), the beloved All Blacks, were
red-hot favourites in 2007, but crumbled under sustained quarter-final
pressure from the French. Errors, poor decision-making and appalling
umpiring delivered the New Zealanders a 20-18 defeat. The dumbfounded
nation wept in the streets and looked around for someone to blame –
calls for wholesale sackings were followed by ugly character assassinations
in the media. The fragile national psyche took a beating, distraught
Kiwis turning to each other and saying, ‘We suck at the only thing
we’re good at!’ Until 2011, the team will have to satisfy
itself with routine demolitions of Australia and South Africa in the
annual Tri Nations and Bledisloe Cups.
Under prime minister Helen Clark's
leadership, the government has continued its pacifist, anti-nuclear
policy, whilst retaining NZ troops in Afghanistan and Iraq. The arts
have flourished, unemployment has remained at record lows, and the domestic
economy has been buoyant. The flow-on effect of a 2006 minimum wage
increase has been a spike in goods and services prices. Travellers have
been feeling the pinch – food, accommodation and transport costs
have ballooned with demand. This, combined with a stronger Kiwi dollar,
means NZ is far from the budget destination it once was.
The national real estate boom continues
to mesmerise sellers and infuriate buyers. Rising house prices have
stabilized with rising interest rates, but wages have failed to keep
up: Auckland, Christchurch and Wellington are among the world’s
most expensive cities in terms of housing affordability (relative to
income).
Other topics on local tongues include
fixed-net fishing endangering dolphins, vexatious treaty settlements,
and didymo (aka ‘rock snot’) infestation in rivers and lakes.
And don’t get anyone started on petrol prices...
That’s contemporary NZ in a nutshell!
You’re in for an awesome trip. Back home on the couch, your memories
will drift from rampaging outdoor activities to world-class food, wine
and beer (oh, especially the wine and beer), and chilled-out locals.
But your most sparkling recollections will come courtesy of NZ’s
natural splendour – there are few countries on this lonely planet
as diverse, unspoiled and utterly, utterly photogenic